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| Fertilize Your Trees Fertilizing typical and drought-tolerant trees in the landscape requires a knack for applying in the right season, proper administration and for using the best product for the tree. Fertilizer is often misunderstood and misused. Fertilizer is not really direct food for trees, but instead, a boost to your trees providing the ingredients needed for photosynthesis and growth. Fertilizer should not only be used when minerals are lacking or absent in the soil but also to maintain a good chemical balance within the soil all year long. Your top ten, typical choice of standard trees for most landscapes range from King and Queen palms to Agonis, Magnolia and Lagerstromia varieties. Drought-tolerant trees can be fertilized much in the same way. These trees should be fertilized on a regular schedule, depending on the geography and status of the tree. Trees in areas that receive a lot of rain usually have a lot of natural nutrients in the soil and only require about one to two times a year of fertilizer application. However, in more arid areas, like the Southwest, you should fertilize up to three times a year to produce more nutrients in the soil and to keep the plant healthy in each season. The best times for fertilizing is in early spring, mid-year and in the fall. The early spring is a good time because tree roots are coming out of the dormant period and require a boost to be healthy as they are starting to grow. Mid-year is also important because trees are experiencing more heat, absorbing water faster because of the heat and therefore going through nutrients quicker. To put in fertilizer during this time gives the tree a boost and replenishes those nutrients lost. During the Fall, tree roots have cooled a bit but there isn't as much rainfall as during winter months. Avoid fertilizing trees and shrubs stressed by drought during the summer months. If water is unavailable, do not fertilize at all because plants will be unable to absorb the nutrients. Gardening with Integrated Pest Management Pests Beneficial insects and other organisms are found throughout the garden along with insect pests. Insects or organisms that kill insect pest are called natural enemies. These natural enemies should be encouraged in the garden to keep the number of insect pest down. Integrated Pest Management (IPM) uses environmentally effective ways to keep insect pest populations down without damaging the natural harmony in the garden. IPM also reduces the pollution in California waterways. Using successful IPM practices begins with correctly identifying insects in the garden. Avoid using any pesticides in the Integrated Pest garden. Using pesticide will not only kill the bad insects but also the beneficial insects such as those who pollinate, collect nectar and take shelter in the garden. Learn to identify the stages of beneficial insect adult and larva forms. The list below is a small quantity of beneficial insects that may be found in the garden. Lady Beetle: Both adult and larvae consume aphids. Lacewings: Larvae feed on insect pests. Adults may be seen around lights. Syrphid flies: Larvae consume aphids. Adults hover over flowers. Parasitic mini-wasps: Adults lay their eggs on insect pest; hatching larvae consume the insect pest. Spiders: All spiders feed on insects and are beneficial to the garden. Other IPM methods without the use of pesticides include: - Planting pest-resistant plants or native plants.
- Changing the way the garden is designed, irrigated and fertilized.
- Using barriers, screens or caulking to keep unwanted pests out.
- Physically removing pests such as smashing, trapping, washing off or pruning off insect pests.
- Allowing the natural enemies to eliminate insect pest from the garden.
Using pesticides in an Integrated Pest Management garden: - Use pesticides only when non-chemical controls have failed where pests are out of control.
- Using pesticides carefully following package directions.
- Choosing a lower toxicity that is the most effective without disrupting human or environment health
Insect Pests in the Garden Lawn insects Most insects in lawns don’t cause enough damage to kill off a lawn. Other factors such as inappropriate grass, unhealthy lawns and improper water have a greater factor than insects. Areas in lawns such as brown spots may be caused by lack –of –irrigation. Dog urine may also look like possible insect damage. There are many beneficial insects in lawns and a pesticide may kill off these insects. Don’t use a pesticide unless the insect pest has been confirmed. Disease and other improper use of chemicals such as fertilizers or herbicides may also be a factor in lawn die back. The following drench test will help confirm insect pest in a lawn. To perform a drench test mix 3-4 tablespoons of dishwashing liquid to 2 quarts of water. Apply mixture to lawn evenly. 2 gallons per 1 square yard of lawn. Watch the area for approximately 10 minutes and count the number of insect pest that raise to the surface. Treat the area with a pesticide if the area exceeds 5 armyworms or cutworms or 15 lawn moths per square yard. To maintain a healthy lawn first start with a grass that will do well in your area. It is better to irrigate deeply and less frequent. Sprinklers should be well maintained. Fertilizer application on a regular basis along with regular cutting and thatching is important. If the natural control method has not worked and the drench method exceeds the level of tolerant insect pest then pesticides can be applied. You should use an insecticide that targets the specific lawn pest. Keep in mind that these insecticides will also target beneficial insects.
Aphids Aphids are found in most gardens feeding on a variety of plants. Aphids are soft-bodied insects that range in size from a pinhead to a match head. These insects pierce the plant sucking up the sweet juices. Some diseases are transmitted in this way from one plant to another. Aphids are attracted to the new growth. For this reason it is better to use a slow release fertilizer and not over fertilize causing too much new growth on the plant at once. Aphids can make plants unsightly by curling leaves, stunting growth and produce a honeydew substance, which can cause Sooty Mold to later collect on the plant. Despite this aphids only cause moderate damage in the garden. The most common plants aphids prefer and may colonize on are flowering plums, roses, crape myrtles, apple trees and many vegetable plants. Ants are often associated with aphids. The ants protect the aphids from their natural enemies in order to collect their honeydew. Natural enemies found in the garden help to keep the aphid population down. Using pesticides disrupts the natural balance in the garden. See list below for natural enemies. Lady beetles, both adults and larvae. Lacewings Syrphid fly larvae Soldier beetle Parasitic mini-wasps Other ways to reduce aphids is by shaking or spraying the plants with water. Plant parts can be pruned with excessive aphids. Aphids don’t like the heat and usually are gone by June. Not so toxic sprays like Insecticidal soap and oils may be used in place of pesticides. These products smother the aphids. Check the label before using as some plants may be sensitive to these products. If the above methods are not working effective pesticides may be used. Earwigs These fierce looking insects are not harmful to humans. They prey on seedlings, annual flowers, soft fruit, and corn silks. They also feed on aphids and other insects found in the garden. These nocturnal insects hide during the day in cool, dark moist places in the garden. Earwigs are easy to maintain by eliminating their hiding spaces. Eliminate undergrowth of vines, groundcovers and weeds. You may also want to remove leaves from ground and other debris on the garden floor such as flowerpots. To catch earwigs, place a rolled newspaper on the soil near plants just before dark. In the morning throw away newspaper or shake the earwigs out into soapy water. Repeat until earwig populations are tolerable. Insecticides should rarely be used. Snails and Slugs Snails and slugs are the most unwanted pest in the garden. They feed during the night on leaves, flowers and fruits. These pests can be seen early in the morning feeding before finding a place to hide for the day. Another sign of damage is a shiny, slimy trail left behind. To control, these pests’ moist hiding spots like weedy areas or debris should be removed. Pick them off places such as under ledges. Place traps in the garden and throwing the traps away. Change irrigation to drip or irrigate in the morning rather than the afternoon. Plant snail proof plants such as geraniums, begonia, lantana, impatiens and nasturtiums and plants that have fragrance such as rosemary or lavender that do not appeal to these pests. Make sure there is not a snail or slug problem before planting. Copper can be used as a deterrent when used as a border for snail or slug prone plants. Build a trap by placing a board off the ground an inch. Removing the snails and slugs attracted every day will reduce their numbers. Baits can be used but are not effective if the food, moisture and shelter are still present. Some baits such, as Metaldehyde can be very toxic to dogs and birds. This bait also loses effectiveness after a rain or in exposed sunlight. Iron phosphates are safe for pets, children and wildlife in the garden. Baits are most effective when applied after irrigation and near the evening near hiding places. Spiders Spiders are beneficial insects in the garden. Some people may find them repulsive or a nuisance but most are harmless to humans. Most spiders eat a large number of insects and have natural enemies such as wasps, birds, lizards and other spiders to keep them in control. The only spider in the garden humans should be worried about is the Black Widow. These spiders are poisonous and are commonly found outdoors in dry areas such as woodpiles. Females are shiny and black with a red hourglass on the underside of the abdomen. Only the females are poisonous. Anyone bit should seek medical help or advice. CA. Poison Control Center can be reached at 1(800)-8-POISON (800)-876-4766) Brown recluse spiders do not live in California. Most spiders’ jaws are too small to bite humans. Those who may often are trapped in clothing. These bites are not severe causing only itching or similar to a bee sting. If spiders are a pest, removing webs or hiding places will cause them to move to another area. Pesticides do not have to be used. Termites Most homeowners cringe when they hear the word Termites. This is due to there destructive habit on wooden structures. If termites are thought to be infesting your home it should be confirmed and controlled by a professional. People often mistakes flying termites as have invaded your home. Another mistake is flying ants are often mistaken for termites. To distinguish termite’s from flying ants review the following. Check the Antennae Ant’s antennas are elbowed where termites are not. Wings Ant wings have few veins where termites have small vein in their wings. As well as both front and back wings are the same sizes. Waist Ants have a thin waist. Termites have a broad waist. The most common termites in California are the subterranean. These termites build their nest in the soil. Damp termites nest in moist wood and soil. Dry termites nest in dry wood above ground. The management of these varies by species. To avoid termites in your homes consider the following. By keeping a 12 inch layer of concrete, or other material between the soil surface and the substructure wood beneath the building. Use termite resistant wood for structures such as fences that make contact with the soil. Do not place woodpiles next to house structure. Pick up all other scrap wood near the home. Provide adequate ventilation to the substructure and reduce moisture. Repair any foundation cracks. If termites are already invading your home, destroy any subterranean shelter tubes from the soil to the wood structure. In the case of damp wood termites where nests are accessible remove infested wood. Dry wood termites can be controlled with heat, freezing, electricity, microwaves, fumigation or spot treatment of chemicals. Using pesticides to control termites may be a factor. An injection into the soil should be applied by a professional applicator. Drilling or rodding does this. Special procedures are followed so no pesticides get into the surface or ground water. Soil injections – the best product is chlorpyrifos. Other newer products such as fipronil and chloronicotinyls are safer to use for human and environmental health. Sometimes bait can be effective, but can takes months to control the problem. Baits should be followed up with constant monitoring. Briggs Tree Company www.BriggsTree.com (760) 727-2727 Vista, CA | |
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